A tête-à-tête with Goa of the 70’s & 80’s.

When I started The Local Beat in June of 2018, I hadn’t realised that I had knocked

on the doors of Goa of the 70’s and 80’s, and I had little idea it still existed in all its

blitheness; an easy-going charm, as alluring as ever. One used to hear the phrase,

‘Oh, that old, charming, Goa is gone forever’, so often, it was easy to believe. Not

true. That Goa is very much alive. You just got to know where to find it. And how to

connect with it. The connection is as important as the physical location. And that’s

where we come in. A lot of times people misunderstand us, thinking we do not

disclose the location of a scenic spot just because we want to keep it to ourselves.

That’s incorrect. Location is necessary but not a sufficient condition to experience

the Goa that we put you in touch with. To know The Local Beat, you have to first

know what that Goa of the 70’s and 80’s was. To say it was uncrowded, with more

of pristine nature on offer would be seeing it in a limiting light.

The essence of that Goa is what matters. It has taken me and my team the last

few years to really understand its character and disposition, which is why, today

when we take you on an outing, we give them a chance to have a relaxed, private

conversation with that Goa of the 70’s and 80’s. That Goa was one of cozy

communities, gatherings, love, funerals, weddings, feasts, music, picnics,

processions, festivals, parties and laughter, where everything was celebrated, no

one felt burdened with reality, disappointments were not lamented, resentments

were not absent but ran low and were quickly undone with a swig of Feni

accompanied with some friendly banter and bonhomie. We had class divides, but

minus the indignation that they were unfair. Class divides were a part of life, a way

of ensuring everything and everyone had a place. It was a Goa where nothing

happened on time, yet, Goans carved out time for doing nothing - like dropping

into the barber shop, not for a haircut, but to catch up on the latest version of

village gossip. The phrase doing nothing had a constructive, if not beneficial ring

to it. Perhaps that’s where the word sussegado – “totally chilled and no guilt about it” outlook comes from. Afternoon naps were revered and the pivot of beneficial nothingness in a day. Every single day. Life revolved around the poder –

bread-man, nustekann - fisher-woman, posorkar - local shopkeeper, bhatkar - the

dude with acres and acres of property and malo - barber. And it revolved around

nature. Nature provided all the entertainment, diversion, relaxation and

restoration that one could want.

I fondly recall the times when our parents took us kids (and a whole bunch of

cousins) to the beach. A large straw mat and the near empty beach was all we

needed to be the happiest kids in the world. Or the days when my father used to

load us up on his bicycle (it was a black BSA SLR) and take us to freshwater

springs on the edge of the forest. Or the afternoons we kids ran off on our own to

explore the hillocks and find new paths, springs and brooks. Or the times we

intruded into private properties with our catapults to try and gather some

mangoes over which we had no rights to. And even if the owner spotted us, we

would be let off with a mild rebuke, a threat to keep our parents in the know

about our behavior, and he would top that with a goodwill of at least 2 mangoes.

Gentleness, goodwill and conviviality were commonplace, and there were few

situations that bonhomie and a swig of Feni or a dive in the river could not diffuse.

The Local Beat is about connecting guests with that good-hearted, nature-filled

Goa tingling with the traditions, habits, openness and outlook of back then. It is a

Goa that, over the last 5 years, my team and I have uncovered in different pockets

throughout the state.

We work for weeks and sometimes months to find new spots, and like I said

earlier, it's not just the spot and its beauty. We connect with the simple and kindly

locals and villagers, tell them that the natural beauty, the customs, food,

traditions, even games they have around them are unique and worth sharing with

the world. It is a slow process. But we are in no hurry. We involve the villagers and

communities in what we do. That way, they are genuinely happy to see guests,

and not because of their money. They are happy to share their world with guests,

generously. The local youngsters help me locate forest pools, freshwater springs,

viewpoints and everything else that they go to. And that is what we, along with

them, present to our guests. They even put me in touch with the kaki - aunty who

is the best cook in the village. And that is the food guests enjoy. When we take

guests on an outing to a particular spot, it is always with locals who have grown

up in that area that accompany them. That’s a rule at The Local Beat - everything

on an outing has to be micro-local. That’s how genuine stories are shared and real

connections with a different side of Goa are made.

There are times when we are asked about the activities that The Local Beat does

for guests. Activities - whether it is leaping into forest pools, learning to make The

Local Beat home-grown feni cocktails, trekking to a grove of sacred trees in the

forest, learning how to make local snacks, or joining the locals in a festivity, keep

guests entertained, help then connect with the locals. But there is something

more. People travel for stories. And they travel to feel new, they want to feel a

newer version of themselves. We make sure our experiences take guests in that

direction, and give them stories for a lifetime. A lot of our guests are keen to try

out things that they have never done before, like leaping into a forest pool from a

rock. This from guests who have never leaped into a swimming pool. Of course,

we ensure that everyone has a lifejacket, but the keenness to try new things is

heartening to see.

Is The Local Beat trying to redefine the image portrayed of Goa and trying to tell

people there is a lot more besides the sun, sand and parties? That depends on

what you take out of a Local Beat outing. I am happy with people taking away

their own stories and deciding for themselves. With the Local Beat it is easy come

easy go, come as you are and go with as many stories and memories as you want

to. That is something I have learnt from the locals in all these spots that I take

guests to. They welcome guests as they are, it doesn't matter to them who you are

in the big world. A genuine connection and generous sharing of their world is all

that matters to them. Aside from regular guests, we have had film stars,

celebrities, fashion designers, and CEOs who have gone on outings with us and

everyone is the same to the locals. So rather than try to redefine the image of Goa,

I want guests to experience a side of Goa that is not put out there. It is available

only to a few, and Local Beat has put in a lot of effort to uncover it.

And that brings me to the assortment, medley and multiplicity that Goan culture

is. Perhaps it’s got to do with our history. The Maurya Empire came to Goa as early

as 332 BC. After that there was a long line of dynasties that vied successfully for

Goa - 9 dynasties to be precise; till 1510 AD. Then the Portuguese took over in 1510

and stayed put for 450 years. Since they were the last in the long line, today you

see a lot of the Portuguese impressions vividly. Goans liberally borrowed culture

and habits from the Portuguese occupiers and whipped it up with the existing

traditions and habits from the previous dynasties. The result is a delicately

composed medley where every subsequent piece has a different set of

instruments and sound, but the entire composition holds up well, is mellifluous

and never fails to surprise, entertain and spiritually enrich someone who is

genuinely interested.

So, yes, while we have the sun, sand and parties, there is so much more to see and

explore. And there’s so much pristine nature. And there’s the large-hearted

welcomes of locals. And there’s so much more - different cuisines, music, the

paddy fields, the croaking of frogs at night, the cashew orchards, the feni brewers,

dances, the festivals, the houses with tunnels to the river, the grand

Portuguese-era mansions, the typical Hindu homes with a courtyard at the

center, the traditional drum maker, and above all, the stories.

The Local Beat wants you to indulge in a bit of everything and walk away with

what they wish to. Join us to have a tête-à-tête with a side of Goa that not many

get to know. Who’s to tell what you might take out of it?